How to Grow Cuttings from Established Plants
You can grow more plants from the ones you have already in
your garden! It's easy to do and is a great way to increase your plants,
especially those that are rare, heritage or expensive.
your garden! It's easy to do and is a great way to increase your plants,
especially those that are rare, heritage or expensive.
Steps
Step 1
Choose the plants you wish to grow
from a cutting. For example, a herb such as rosemary or
lavender, a flower such as roses or any other plant. However, be aware that
not all plants will grow from a cutting; a good gardening guide will clarify for
you whether or not a plant can be produced
through a cutting. If not, you might surprise yourself with what you can achieve
just through trial and error and not being too fussed if the plant doesn't
take.
from a cutting. For example, a herb such as rosemary or
lavender, a flower such as roses or any other plant. However, be aware that
not all plants will grow from a cutting; a good gardening guide will clarify for
you whether or not a plant can be produced
through a cutting. If not, you might surprise yourself with what you can achieve
just through trial and error and not being too fussed if the plant doesn't
take.
Step 2
Using sharp garden secateurs (pruners), snip off shoots
from
the plant. Choose reasonably new but mature
growth from
the parent plant. Choose a length for the cutting. Generally, cut
about 8 to 10cm/3 to 5 inches for perennial and 15cm-30cm/6 to 12 inches for
shrubs. Since the size varies according
to
the plant, you might need to practice some trial and error again.
When cutting, unless advised otherwise by advice on the particular plant, cut at
a 30 degree angle, leaving the cutting with a
point.
from
the plant. Choose reasonably new but mature
growth from
the parent plant. Choose a length for the cutting. Generally, cut
about 8 to 10cm/3 to 5 inches for perennial and 15cm-30cm/6 to 12 inches for
shrubs. Since the size varies according
to
the plant, you might need to practice some trial and error again.
When cutting, unless advised otherwise by advice on the particular plant, cut at
a 30 degree angle, leaving the cutting with a
point.
- Small cuttings are best for smaller plants and shrubs, while larger cuttings
(called "truncheons") up to a metre or two long and 5-10cm/2 to 4 inches thick
can work best for larger plants such as poplars and mulberries.
- If in doubt, make the cuttings about 10-20cm/4
to 8 inches long.
Step 3
Using sharp garden secateurs (pruners), snip off shoots
from
the plant. Choose reasonably new but mature
growth from
the parent plant. Choose a length for the cutting. Generally, cut
about 8 to 10cm/3 to 5 inches for perennial and 15cm-30cm/6 to 12 inches for
shrubs. Since the size varies according
to
the plant, you might need to practice some trial and error again.
When cutting, unless advised otherwise by advice on the particular plant, cut at
a 30 degree angle, leaving the cutting with a
point.
It is best to cut the plant about 1/2cm-1cm/1/4 inch to 1/2 inch below a knot (a knot has two small branches or two leaves) because roots tend to grow around and underneath a knot.
from
the plant. Choose reasonably new but mature
growth from
the parent plant. Choose a length for the cutting. Generally, cut
about 8 to 10cm/3 to 5 inches for perennial and 15cm-30cm/6 to 12 inches for
shrubs. Since the size varies according
to
the plant, you might need to practice some trial and error again.
When cutting, unless advised otherwise by advice on the particular plant, cut at
a 30 degree angle, leaving the cutting with a
point.
It is best to cut the plant about 1/2cm-1cm/1/4 inch to 1/2 inch below a knot (a knot has two small branches or two leaves) because roots tend to grow around and underneath a knot.
Step 4
Treat the
cutting. Treating the cutting gives it a
better chance at taking root because it has nutrients to encourage it.
Place the cuttings in a weak
mixture of water and a seaweed-based liquid fertilizer for a period of 3-4
hours. If possible, put the cuttings under a single
fluorescent light. After this, dip the cut end of the
cutting in rooting hormone just before planting it.
cutting. Treating the cutting gives it a
better chance at taking root because it has nutrients to encourage it.
Place the cuttings in a weak
mixture of water and a seaweed-based liquid fertilizer for a period of 3-4
hours. If possible, put the cuttings under a single
fluorescent light. After this, dip the cut end of the
cutting in rooting hormone just before planting it.
Step 5
Create the rooting
medium. Start the cutting in sand, soil,
or even just water. Some cuttings actually produce roots better in water than in
soil––again, you'll need to either experiment or read up
on
the specific plant's preferences. Sand is a sort of compromise,
but should be treated like water when it comes to adding fertilizer.
If using garden soil, plant cuttings in a moist well prepared garden bed rich in organic material, with a pH around 5.5 - 6.0 (or you can place them in pots with good potting mix). Space the cuttings so they are about as far apart from each other as the cuttings are long.
medium. Start the cutting in sand, soil,
or even just water. Some cuttings actually produce roots better in water than in
soil––again, you'll need to either experiment or read up
on
the specific plant's preferences. Sand is a sort of compromise,
but should be treated like water when it comes to adding fertilizer.
If using garden soil, plant cuttings in a moist well prepared garden bed rich in organic material, with a pH around 5.5 - 6.0 (or you can place them in pots with good potting mix). Space the cuttings so they are about as far apart from each other as the cuttings are long.
- If using softwood cuttings, take the cutting and stick into moist soil straight in the garden. Simply water them and in a year or two, they'll be growing along with the best of the garden.
Step 6
Water well when first planted. Then, keep the cutting moist, but not
over watered (try a mister). Success rates can be anything between zero (some
plants cannot be rooted from cuttings at all) and 90 percent. Try not to get
discouraged if it doesn't take; equally, don't be surprised by initial wilting
in
the first few days––that's normal.
over watered (try a mister). Success rates can be anything between zero (some
plants cannot be rooted from cuttings at all) and 90 percent. Try not to get
discouraged if it doesn't take; equally, don't be surprised by initial wilting
in
the first few days––that's normal.
Step 7
Transplant the cuttings to
their final growing spot once you're certain they have taken
root. With large 'truncheons' of willow, poplar or
mulberry, trim a point on the bottom end, and
ram
the cutting into the ground for three
quarters of its length, so that just a small part sticks above ground. This
action is best done right where you want the tree to grow; no
further action is necessary apart from
keeping weeds and plant-eating animals (rabbits, deer, kangaroos, etc.)
away.
their final growing spot once you're certain they have taken
root. With large 'truncheons' of willow, poplar or
mulberry, trim a point on the bottom end, and
ram
the cutting into the ground for three
quarters of its length, so that just a small part sticks above ground. This
action is best done right where you want the tree to grow; no
further action is necessary apart from
keeping weeds and plant-eating animals (rabbits, deer, kangaroos, etc.)
away.